Visiting The Diné (Navajo) Nation
An unexpected route that turned into an epic experience.
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Back in January, we decided to explore a new route on our journey from Sedona, Arizona, to Pagosa Springs, Colorado.
Since we hate driving the interstates, we did a quick internet search for backroads and discovered a place called Window Rock (Tségháhoodzání), located along Highway 246 in Arizona. It is the largest Diné1 reservation in the United States and serves as the capital for the Navajo Nation.
To be honest, I was hesitant to take this route.
The Navajo Nation has very strict rules about non-natives entering their land, as well as their recreational areas requiring permits. Not to mention, we’ve seen numerous warnings for non-natives at Navajo stops along I-40 since we started traveling in 2020, mostly to keep to the gas stations and fast food restaurants only.
We certainly didn’t want to disrespect their laws or culture, nor did we want to contribute to more problems the white people have already brought to this nation, so I was unsure how we’d be received, or whether we’d even be allowed to drive there.
After doing more research, we discovered our visit would be no problem as long as we adhered to these rules and guidelines. So we headed off toward Highway 246.
The drive toward Window Rock was amazing.
Filled with red rock mountain landscapes and vast open ranges, it didn’t take long for my apprehension to give way to peace. We enjoyed the incredible scenery and the road less traveled, rarely seeing another vehicle along the way.
As we arrived in Window Rock, we checked into our hotel.
This Quality Inn was one of the nicest properties of its brand we’ve stayed in. It was clean, the room spacious and nice, and the staff was welcoming and friendly. Despite the restaurant undergoing renovations, our breakfast in the morning was fantastic!
After that, our first stop was the Navajo Nation Museum and Library, conveniently located right next to the hotel.
Navajo Nation Museum
This beautiful building serves as a multi-purpose event center. It houses a museum, library, snack bar, gift shop, information center, and some offices. It also offers an outdoor amphitheater and an authentic Navajo Hogan.
As we entered the museum, I felt an overwhelming sadness.
Having worked with several Native American tribes in the past and having read several books about the Navajo Code Talkers, I knew the horrors of what these people endured historically, especially the Navajo Nation.
If you do not know this history or have never heard of The Long Walk, this summary from the National Museum of the American Indian sums it up.2
Major General James H. Carleton ordered Christopher (Kit) Carson to defeat the Navajo resistance by conducting a scorched-earth campaign across the Navajo homelands. Carson burned villages, slaughtered livestock, and destroyed water sources to reduce the Diné to starvation and desperation.
With few choices, thousands of Navajo surrendered and were forced to march between 250 and 450 miles to the Bosque Redondo Reservation. While intended to be a reservation, Bosque Redondo functioned as an internment camp. The U.S. stationed soldiers there to make sure that the Diné could not leave.
From the beginning, the plan was to force the Navajo to adopt white American cultural values; however, many Navajo resisted cultural assimilation and would continue the fight until they were allowed to return to their homelands.
Sadly, this is just one of many dark and disturbing moments in the history of our country, when an entire nation of Indigenous people was almost wiped out because of the color of their skin, language, and way of life.
The museum paints a clear picture of these facts and atrocities, and I cannot in good conscience write this article without sharing this critical information. We cannot ignore this history, nor should we ever allow such things to happen again.
The Navajo people also include a heartfelt and inspiring gallery from different artists depicting Native American culture and life, including the introduction of alcohol into their society and the monstrous damage it caused to their nation. It was a mixture of celebration and challenges.
We also got to view some important artifacts, including the only copy of the Navajo Treaty of 1868, and several items from the Navajo Code Talkers.
As we started to leave the Navajo Nation Museum, we met a wonderful couple, Lucy and Daniel, who work there and live on the reservation. We talked about their culture and traveling, among other things, and it was one of the best experiences we’ve had!
Navajo Tribal Park and Veterans Memorial
Our second stop was to see Window Rock itself and honor the Navajo Military Veterans who served our country.
This small park is located near the Navajo Nation headquarters and administrative offices and is stunning to see! Because of its cultural significance, you are not allowed to get up close to the rock formation or climb it, but it is worth it, even only from a short distance.
Additionally, the Veterans Memorial, which was established in 1995, pays respects to many of the Navajo Code Talkers, whose native Diné language was used to create unbreakable codes in World War II and were critical to us winning the war. Names of Navajo war veterans are also highlighted within this park.
J.L. Hubbell Trading Post
The next day, as we left Window Rock and headed west toward Highway 191, we discovered an original trading post for the Navajo people and new settlers.
The J.L. Hubbell Trading Post is a historical site that dates back to 1874. John Lorenzo Hubbell purchased it in 1878, and it was sold to the National Parks Service in 1967.
Stopping here was a true delight. It houses many historical artifacts, still has original buildings, and is one of the last operational trading posts in this country. You can purchase authentic Navajo rugs and artwork, camping supplies, and even cans of SPAM.
Plus, you can get chased by the chickens and see the sheep for an added bonus.
Canyon de Chelly National Monument
Our last stop in the Navajo Nation would be something spectacular!
Canyon de Chelly was an epic adventure despite the howling and extremely cold winds we endured the day of our visit. The views along the drive and at the stopping points are simply indescribable; you just have to see them to understand.
The canyon is home to many Diné people who raise livestock and continue to live here as they did 5,000 years ago. As we hiked along one of the viewing areas, we met a 75-year-old man who owned some of the property below. He told us stories about growing up there and how he had to wait for the flood waters to recede before he could get home. Despite his age, he walked way faster than we could.
As we made our way to the end of the canyon and back, we continued to be mesmerized by the enormity of this place and the beauty it held.
Before we left the park, we came across a Navajo couple who somehow had gotten their car stuck in a ditch. Regardless of my mother’s warnings to never stop and help people because they might carjack us, there was no way I was gonna leave them stranded there.
After we dislodged the vehicle from the deep sand, the young man thanked me and prayed for me in his native language and told me I was the only white person who ever helped him. My response was that I was simply a Native American trapped in a vanilla body who hated Kit Carson. He burst out laughing and then gave me a man hug.
I don’t say this to give myself credit, only to state how we should all be open to helping and loving our fellow humans no matter the color of their skin or where they come from. It was a glorious exchange I’ll never forget.
Thank you to the Navajo Nation.
Those two short days around Window Rock were very special to us, and it opened our eyes even more to a proud people and nation who, in my opinion, deserve eternal blessings and respect for what they have endured.
I am grateful for our opportunity to visit and for your hospitality.
Ahéhee'
Thanks for sharing this. I've been hesitant to visit indigenous people's lands as I wasn't sure what the rules are and didn't want to be a problematic white person. This spells it out (at least for the Navajo).